Sushi By Scratch Serves Fish-Focused Feasts, Fine Dining Style

Sushi represents the ultimate in minimalism, right? Well, there’s a staggering amount of prep that goes into the thoughtful presentations from chef Phillip Frankland Lee and his polished crew. Let’s take a deep dive into what makes this collection of restaurants such exciting dining destinations.

Here’s the backstory on Sushi by Scratch

Chef Phillip Frankland Lee first got hooked on sushi as a kid growing up in Encino, Calif. “I got my first book on sushi when I was 13,” he said. Later, his background in fine dining played a starring role in the approach Sushi by Scratch takes.

“We think of it as an omakase-inspired tasting menu experience,” he said during a recent phone interview. Elegant, but not fussy.

Those memorable dining experiences start with sourcing the best quality ingredients, including purchasing pristine seafood from Toyosu Fish Market in Tokyo, one of the world’s most famous fish markets. “Obviously, the fish is the star of the meal and we treat it with respect,” he said.

“We use different colors and textures and temperatures to bring out the best in the star ingredients,” Lee said. Those multi-layer embellishments don’t shout, but act more like a whisper. “We’re always looking for what works best with the protein. It’s almost like being a stylist.”

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Taking center stage

When diners walk into the tucked-away location, they first land in the bar to enjoy an aperitif before moving onto a stool at the counter. The extensive list of fish that will be served is clearly visible — from favorites such as toro, uni and albacore to more under-the-radar selections. That can include escolar, akami, hirame and bone marrow. Yes, there are even some land-based bites to savor.

The lineup doesn’t tell the story of each preparation but the chefs play a pivotal role in fleshing out what’s set in front of you. Each creation might seem simple and straightforward, but there are many components that come together for the big finish.

Let’s take the signature preparation of hamachi, for instance. The fish is painted with a sweet corn pudding, house-made soy sauce offering a deeply satisfying complement. Finally, a matcha salt Lee and the team create with mushrooms, dried kelp and the main ingredient mimic the effects of MSG. “Let’s face it, MSG gets a bad rap, but it’s an umami bomb. We put a lot of thought into making this matcha salt, we are looking for something that brings out the best in the fish,” Lee said.

When satisfied diners rain praise on the kitchen, guests often remark that it’s the most incredible non-traditional sushi experience they’ve ever enjoyed. But Lee points out that the approach actually has roots in the original sushi restaurants that popped up in Japan in the 1950s.

“As the country was coming back from the war, chefs opened tiny cafes in their own homes where they’d tell their story of growing up in Tokyo through the menu,” said Lee, who has been a student of the art form for decades.

When Lee tells his sushi-inspired story of growing up in Southern California, he might slip some poblano peppers into the mix. In the other Sushi by Scratch locations, there are telltale nods to the local culinary culture. In Montecito, a tony town near Santa Barbara, just-caught fish is a big deal. “We want to reflect the place where we are,” he said.

Sitting down to savor the experience at Sushi by Scratch means you’re going to have a front row seat to at least 17 creations, with add-ons like foie available. There’s a board that shows what’s coming next, but the meticulous chef team preparing the feast can also walk you through the details. For instance, you might learn that the founders of the restaurants searched the globe looking for a source for salt that offered low salinity and delivered a generous crunch. They found it in Bali.

The excitement in sharing details is palpable.

“We call what we do workshop-style service. Guests get that we’re excited to share something we’ve been tinkering with in a way that’s not flashy,” Lee said.

Done and done, and good luck getting a reservation. Seats open up reservations open the first day of each month at 10 a.m. PST and are gobbled up quickly.

Sushi by Scratch has 12 locations, including New York and Los Angeles. Austin and Denver are the latest.

Seattle Refined visited with chef Lee shortly after Sushi by Scratch made its debut in 2022. Here’s the video:

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